One thing that survived the Pandemic: Fast Fashion

One thing that survived the pandemic: Fast Fashion

Fast Fashion to some may be a blessing but to many, a curse. Especially with the UK being in and out of lockdown since March 2020, the easier to buy an item, the better.

By Rachel Johnston

Fast Fashion usually keeps its prices low and distracts consumers with free next day delivery and 20% off because who doesn’t love a good deal. But in reality, the companies are covering the deeper costs with these distractions.

Pretty Little Thing, Boohoo, Urban Outfitters, ASOS.

These are names that roll off the tongue for many people - some would say these companies are now household names. These companies used to love their ‘Saturday night looks’ or ‘jeans and a nice top’ promotions, getting their customers to buy something new for the weekend ahead.

But what did they do when lockdown began, and their consumers had nowhere to go? They changed their marketing strategy towards ‘comfy casuals’ and ‘how to look good in the house’.

Being stuck inside with absolutely nothing to do meant one thing; consumers will now buy out of boredom.

People took to their computers and phones, making the most of numerous discount codes which gather in their email inbox. But it is time to hit unsubscribe? Many feel obligated to make the most of a discount given, but this is just falling into the trap.

Esther Pugh is a Lecturer in Business Strategy and Marketing, whilst doing a PhD combining Critical Spatial Theory and Consumer Culture Theory in the context of Vintage Fashion Fairs.

Esther Pugh says: “There are all different types of consumers, I suppose there'll be some who are consuming less because of the lockdown. But there are others who actually have got a lot more spending power. They're sitting at home, they're bored, and they're constantly chasing this retail experience, which is about the delivery of a parcel.

There's no doubt that we are going to shop more online because of the pandemic. This was a huge trend anyway, the pandemic has just accelerated that change."

Esther continues to educate people on how online shopping is rapidly increasing;

“45% of all shopping is now done online, increased from around 30%. The majority of shopping used to be in the stores, but now, online has specific categories, and it is less hassle to find the specific item you want. Consumers are now buying more online and no longer going into the stores.

If consumers can see that there's a Primark which has got trendy stuff for £3. They're always going to go to that. I mean, there are people who that's all they can afford, you know, and for things like clothes for kids as well. That's fast fashion, isn't it?”

When purchasing fast fashion items, questions may begin to arise. Will the quality reflect the price?

The answer is straightforward.

Mass-production only leads to quantity over quality. This is only adding to the fact that the fast fashion industry is drowning in polyester, a synthetic (plastic) material made from coal and oil.

According to experts, over 700,000 fibres could be released per 6kg wash. Whilst Harvard University stated in 2020 that the ocean has around ‘14 million tons of microplastic on the whole ocean floor’’

Another recent study by OrbMedia analysed 159 water samples taken from bottled water and tap water from 14 countries around the world, and found that ‘over 80% of all samples contained

Image: www.istockphoto.com

tiny plastic particles, with an average of 4.34 plastic particles per litre of water.’

Claire Couchman is the ethical tailor behind Couchman Bespoke, a London-based social enterprise specialising in made-to-order, contemporary attire all made from ethically sourced cloth and haberdashery.

"In every garment that I make I try and use organic cloth. But within that, I also look to use any cloth that doesn't need as much water. I find these are mainly linens and bamboos, which I use a lot of."

The companies that I use all have Circular Water Systems because, to break down the fibres, the materials must be put through water treatment.”

“By having a Circular Water System, the companies can then reuse the water multiple times, and put it through a filtration system for the end of life. It goes back into the water system nicely and cleanly."

Claire spoke about how she tries to educate people she interacts with through her company.

"With doing the alterations, I can see the people directly, and I can talk to them about their consumption of clothes, even advising them about their use of polyester.

“Every linen t-shirt, every cotton t-shirt, you've got 20,000 litres of water that you use just to produce that, from seed through to the actual garment, and it is not only the environmental impact of the water. It is also that there are people that have to use water to make clothes, that they should be drinking."

Even though fast fashion companies use many variations of synthetic materials, their online revenue is still rising.

Boohoo announced in April 2020 that its revenue was up by 44%, whilst Asos reported a 36% rise in sales by the end of 2020. With non-essential stores being closed, this has inevitably accelerated the shift towards online shopping.

IMRG Capgemini Online Retail Results reveal that UK online sales grew ‘74% year-on-year in January 2021. Amid a third national lockdown, 50% of textile, clothing, and footwear sales all came through online channels in the first month of the year.’

Consumers must not underestimate the multi-million-pound corporations.

Fast Fashion brands can see what is going on around them and what people want. With many now making a conscious effort to talk more openly about sustainability and maybe even put something in place to help.

Let's take a look at some steps that have been taken by big names within the fashion industry:

H&M has introduced a Recycling Programme, in which you can take 2 bags of unwanted textile or clothing and receive a £5 voucher in return. Their website states that they collected ‘29,005 tonnes of textiles’ in 2019 alone. The company has also set targets to actively reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 2030.

Up to 80 big names signed ‘The Fashion Pact’ in 2020, which is a collection of companies throughout the fashion and textile industry, all with the same three values: Stopping global warming, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans. You can find names like Inditex, Gap and Nike on the signatories list.

Zara’s (owned by Inditex) online orders arrived in 100% recycled cardboard boxes, made from boxes previously used in stores. Zara has also committed to making 100% of cotton, linen and polyester sustainable by 2025, and 100% of viscose by 2023.

Gucci now only offer excess packaging, such as gift boxes upon request. With the aim to be 100% recyclable.

Asos have made their package 100% recyclable, along with the cardboard boxes they package their smaller items in. According to their website, one of their main aims is ‘taking action to eliminate problematic and unnecessary packaging by 2025.’

However, for many people, this simply is not enough.

Greenwashing

The term ‘Greenwashing’ is now being used to describe misleading information, to make buyers believe the company is more sustainable and ‘green’, and that is what people in 2021 are looking for.

For example, take a look at Pretty Little Things ‘Sustainability’ section. The company offers a page on their website, where you can find some tips and tricks on how to be more sustainable. Some of these tips include; washing your jeans inside out or steaming instead of ironing.

Some may say this is contradictory since the company hosted an ‘up to 99% off sale back in November. This saw shoppers buying dresses for as little as 8p.

How can a multi-million-pound organisation sell ‘£20’ joggers for £2 or ‘£15’ T-shirts for 50p?

This allows for a more deep-rooted issue than one may think. If an item can be sold for 50p, how much will it cost to produce, and how much money will the garment worker producing the item receive?

Pretty Little Thing may have changed their packaging to recyclable and made a page to give tips about sustainability but is this enough for them to gain higher regard in the sustainable fashion industry.

Lydia Bolton is a designer, who made her namesake brand back in 2019, after vowing to adjust her professional career in fashion to align with her personal values on sustainability.

She creates different items of clothing; from shirts and scrunchies to sweater vests. All made from unwanted clothing and stitched by hand in her North London home studio.

“The majority of returns created by Fast Fashion brands often end up in a landfill.”

“When I first started, I would go to charity shop warehouses and take the clothes that they couldn't sell.

“I soon learned that most clothing in charity shops isn't sold. Only 10 to 30% of clothing in charity shops are sold, and the other 70 to 90% are exported, mainly to landfill in the global south."

“The majority of returns created by Fast Fashion brands often end up in a landfill.

“Someone could order a size 8 and 10 just to see which one fits better. This often means the one that's returned is never put back into stock. It is a lot of logistical work. It's millions, maybe billions of pounds of clothes each year go to the landfill just from returns.”

Lydia advises: "Buy things that you’re really obsessed with and love. When you think of something that you want, have a look on Depop first, or on a secondhand website or charity shop.

“If you see something you really want, wait 30 days, and if you still want it, then it's not an impulse buy. Also think about if you would wear it if others wouldn’t, is it just a trend?”

Image: Lydia Bolton

A personal study that included 27 participants of all ages and genders gave an insight into how consumers behaved during the nation lockdown.

37.4% of participants did in fact increase their shopping habits during the pandemic, whilst 29.6% stated that it increased 'considerably'.

Other results revealed how 48% of participants do not actually check second-hand sites, such as Depop or Vinted before they buy online. Whilst 85.2% of participants stated that they do want to become more sustainable in the near future.

Whilst sustainable fashion is certainly on the rise, there is still plenty of work to be done.

Figures are showing that sales for fast fashion brands are not decreasing, and consumers are admitting to using the sites frequently.

If the effects of climate change are to be counteracted, consumers must change their practices before it is too late.

It is quite clear that 21st-century consumers are more than willing to change their practices. Maybe it is just a fact of how. But when individuals find what works for them, then it becomes a stepping stone action into making the world a better place.

Part 3

Fast Fashion: Let's slow it down

A special report surrounding the effects Fast Fashion is having on today's society

One thing that survived the pandemic: Fast Fashion